Climbs 16 (5a to 7b) – Rock Type Limestone – Altitude 126m a.s.l
Distance from Beirut 13 KM ; 20min – Season to climb: Spring, Autumn & Winter
Closest crag to Beirut. South facing and next to a river, so think about getting some mosquito repellent. It is better not to climb here in Summer as temperatures can go as high as 37°C.
The LCA, Marcin Pius and the late John Redwine developed 7 climbs in 2010. Julien Pierson, Edgard Kazzi, Georges Al Murr, Jean Kreiker and Elie Diab bolted new routes in 2011.
How to get there
The following information and topo has been provided by the late and great John Redwine and Marcin Pius. New routes were set up in 2014 by Julien Pierson, Edgard Kazzi, Elie Diab, Georges Al Murr and Jean Kreiker.
Take the road from Mkalles roundabout to Mansourieh and Beit Mery. Before reaching Mansourieh watch for a right turn towards Bellevue Medical Center. Follow the road downhill until you reach the hospital. Just as you pass the building, take the left hand side road. After about 1km, there will be a right turn of 180º. Follow this road down till the end of the steep descent. You will see a gate in front of you. the access has been closed by cars since 2016. When you see the gate, go up on the left and park your car next to the fence. Walk past that fence, after the small house you'll see stairs on the right. Follow that path and turn left on the dirt road. Walk for about 5 minutes, the cliff is directly on your left.
If land owners or workers ask you where you going, just tell them you are climbers going to the cliff next to the water station.
The first routes were put up by the late John Redwine and Marcin Pius in 2010.
All routes are equipped with glue in bolts and rap anchors. "Four to go" has rap in the middle of the route for those for those who don't have a 70m rope (so it can be climbed and rappelled in two pitches on 50m rope). There is usually a bamboo stick near the base of the cliff for pre-clipping but you will need some finger tape or duct tape to make the system work.
John Redwine and Marcin Pius
8 - Djibouti Embassy 6a+ ★★ A 32 m pitch on the very right of the crag. Start on the first three bolts of Four To Go and head right after the ledge. M. Pius 2011.
9 - The Grand Traverse 6a. Begin on Three To Get Ready and traverse all the way to the first anchor of Ladies First (14 bolts). J. Redwine 2011.
10 - 7a+. Begin on Three To Get Ready, traverse to the left until you reach the cave. Use the bolts on the way to anchor yourself for safety.
11 - 7b+
12 - Snake 6c+ ★★★ To get to the start, climb Three To Get Reay or Yalla Habibi and make your belay on the first bolt of Snake the route after 5m of scrambling rocks. To rappel down, you need a 70m rope to reach the top chain of Yalla Habibi or use the first bolt at the bottom of Snake. M. Pius 2011.
1 - Three To Get Ready 5b Easiest route on the crag with a bouldery start. M. Pius and J. Redwine 2010
2 - Yalla Habibi 7a. A hard start. You can also climb the first two bolts of Three To Get Ready and continue along this route from the rock bridge. P. Dudek 2011.
3 - Mon Oeil 6a+.
4 - Two For The Show 6c+. Steep bouldery start, slabby challenge in the mid-section and a demanding finish on pockets. M. Pius and J. Redwine 2010.
5 - Opa On TV 6c. Bouldery and pumping start.
6 - Run For The Money 6a ★★★ Sustained and varied climb: the classic introduction to this crag. M. Pius and J. Redwine 2010.
7 - Ladies First (6a, 6b, 6b) ★★ Combine the first two pitches with a 70m rope (16 bolts). To top-rope the first pitch, climb Four To Go to the first belay and traverse left to reach the chain. You can top-rope, rappel down 2 of the 3 pitches at the time. M. Pius and J. Redwine 2010.