MULTI-PITCHES IN TANNOURINE 

 

Climbs 3 (5a to 6c) – Rocktype Limestone – Altitude 1585m a.s.l.

Distance from Beirut 90 KM ; 1h45 – Season to climb: Spring, Summer & Autumn

These multi-pitches have been bolted by the French Army in 2000. You have the choice between: 130m, 200m and 300m

Tannourine El Fawqa

These 3 big walls are located in the Tannourine El Fawqa (Chir Al Ribazi) site. The access to each one has been detailed next.

 

1 - BRUME EN RIBAZIE, 200m / 5c max, 5a

Climb bolted from down on  October 21st in 2001 by Bernard Virelaude and Alain Ecoiffier. Bolts in inox 12mm, 10 bolts, rapelling 45m.

ACCESS

From Sector VI, walk along the cliff for about 200m. The climb starts between two big rocks.

Grades: 5b/5c/5a/4/5a/5c/5a

 

2 - JARDILAND, 130M / 6a+ max, 5a

Climb bolted from down on October 23rd in 2001 by Bernard Virelaude and Alain Ecoiffier. Bolts in inox 12mm, 10 bolts, rapelling 45m.

ACCESS

Check this topo: Sector V, number 34.

Grades: 5b/6a+/5c/5a/3+

1st pitch of Jardiland

 

3 - MON COEUR S'ENVOLE, 300M / 6B MAX, 5b

Climb bolted from down on October 21st in 2001 by Raphael Paime and Christophe Ratel. Bolts in inox 12mm, 12 bolts, rapelling 45m.

ACCESS

From Sector VI, walk along the cliff for about 300m. The climb starts on the left of a big cave. The name is written on the rock.

Grades: 6b/6a/5c/5c/6a/6a/6b/5c/5b/6a


Wadi Ain Raha

The following routes and topo have been opened by Marcin Pius, Patrick Dudek and the late John Redwine. This is written by Marcin Pius in 2011.

 

Patrick Dudek, John Redwine and I spend four days in Wadi Ain Raha above Tannourine Tahta village in March 2011 opening two new routes: Gold Mine (aka “Polish-American Route”) and Green Crack. Below is a short description and topo.

1 - Gold Mine (aka “Polish-American Route”). It is a 6 pitch sport route that climbs from the very bottom to the top of the wall (190m). But…PLEASE STOP at the last belay and rap along the route. DO NOT walk off or try top up and walk higher than the last belay. There are MINES on top of this cliff and possibly on the large edges near the top.
Pitches are 5b, 6a, 6c, 7a+, 6a, 6b+.

Please note that after the 4th pitch (7a+) there is hanging belay so you can hear and see your partner below when belaying. However, for the 5th pitch, it is better to move the belay to the start of it, that is a short (12m) rock scramble away (up and left) at a huge and comfy ledge (two bolt belay).

Double 60m rope is necessary if you want to rappel the route in the three raps (otherwise it will be very complicated experience to get down).

Rack: double 60m, 15 quick draws, shoulder length slings, and helmet.

2. Green Crack, 3 pitches 6a on trad, 140m, plus 100m of easy rock scrambling / walk to reach the bolted rap line of Gold Mine. Belays after the first and second pitch of this route are equipped with single rap bolt, so you could rap along this line if you leave a sling on top of the third pitch. However, because of high vegetated rock, to rap that way might be a bit unpleasant.

Rack: double 60m rope, helmet, standard set of cams (5 or so), standard set of nuts (8 or so), quick draws (11 or so), shoulder length slings (5 or so).

Foreshortened view of Green Crack (trad in yellow) and the first four pitches of Gold Mine

How to find it

From Beirut, take the Tripoli highway north along the coast and drive as far as Batroun. Take the Batroun exit, drive through the town and take the right on the traffic lights at the centre (should be signed Tannourine and Douma). If lost just ask for the road to Tannourine and Douma. Your road should cross above the highway and drive uphill. Follow this road following directions to Tannourine. In Tannourine El Tahta, take left turn at (before) the large general store / restaurant on the left, go straight over the bridge and at a T-junction turn right. Follow this narrow and windy road up and up and more up with lots of dogleg switchbacks. After some 4km, watch for a ruin of a very old building on your left. It will be on a road bend to the left. There is a small car parking space on the right side of the road at this bend, right before you see the ruins. Park there. Look up and you will see The Face ;-)

If you want to camp, there is a tent space 5 meters above the oraad (on the left arriving from T. Tahta) on nice fine sand.

From the car park, walk straight up the hill, veering left among the pine trees. At some point you should see a rock buttress starting above you, perhaps a bit to the left. Walk below it so you take it from the left, you should see a stone cairn around there. When you find it you will be in the broad gully that will lead you to the bottom of the face. From the cairn walk straight up without staying too much left or right, picking your path sling the rock scree, little rock steps and through the bushes, until you hit a short rock band. We hung a fixed line with knots to climb it. This rope is around the right side of the rock band. If you walk along it you will find it sooner or later. Go up the fixed rope, and continue walking up until you hit the bottom of the bolt some 4 meters above you. If the cairn is gone, just walk along the cliff watching for the bolt hanger. Green Crack starts more or less in the same place just a bit to the left from Gold Mine and climbs with slight diagonal tilt to the left. If you look carefully you might see the rap ring on the first pitch of Green Crack.

View from the pine forest near the road. Dashed line is the walking approach along the gully (not visible from this perspective). Solid lines are the climbs: left is Green Crack, right is Gold Mine. Dotted line between the top of Green Crack and the top of the 4th pitch of  Gold Mine is a walk that connects Green Crack with the rappeling line of Gold Mine.

Obviously it would be easier if you go there first with John or me if you feel like climbing either of those two routes please let us know – perhaps we could join you.

These are great routes with feel of adventure – go for it.

Cheers

Marcin Pius